EIR Legionary Contubernium Underway! (Part 1)

I'm starting on my next Tent Group (or Roman Contubernium).  Here I'm comparing a new plastic mini from Warlord Games to a metal alloy figure from Wargames Foundry.  There are differences to be sure but I think overall they're okay for side-by-side placement in a battle line.  The main difference which I dislike greatly and will have to figure out how to fix is the Gladius (sword) size disparity.  On the plastic 28mm WLG figures the sword is oddly shaped and way to small -- looks more like a Pugio (dagger).  But for this Contubernium I will use the Pilum carrying plastic (until I sort this out, perhaps I will have to resin cast new swords?). 

I start with flash and mold line cleaning/removal.  The WGF metal figures require a good amount of this effort (way more than the superb Aventine 28mm metal alloy minis).  Next up will by black primer coverage.

I prep the figures for paint-handling by blue sticky-tack attaching them to extra paint pots.  Notice that once they're all primed black -- it is hard to spot the plastic mini out of the group; which is a good thing (I do like the idea of plastic minis because you can easily adjust and customize various positions and stances).

I begin with the armor color application -- this is fast and fun to do.  I tend to like to work in small batches of figures as to not get overwhelmed...so a Tent Group is perfect I think.  Also this way I can spot and remember any small oddities with each figure, making mental notes as I go along on how I will deal with them (e.g. a sword strap that is oddly molded or a scarf that will be hard to reach with care so I may need to adjust the "order" I paint the colors on, etc.).

I painted the Pilum (javelin) shaft a buff/khaki like color because I know the Army Painter Quick Shade "Dip" will darken it and I want it to stand out.  Now I work the skin colors up.  As I described in my step-by-step Primus Pilus Centurion post previously, skin is my least favorite part to paint.  I tend to mix Reaper's Caucasian Flesh with Army Painter's Tanned Flesh at differing amounts as to create different skin tones (so they all don't look exactly alike).  Sometimes during this step, I spot a mold line I missed and reach for my hobby knife to scrap it away and then go back to painting.  I tend to thin the flesh paints as I go with some of P3's Acrylic Paint Medium to improve the flow of the paint onto the mini.

To Be Continued! 

My Primus Pilus Centurion! (fresh from the photo booth)

I am happy with my completed figure and I think it looks pretty good overall.  I enjoyed painting and finishing the Warlord Games' 28mm metal alloy Primus Pilus with Wargames Foundry Scutum (and LBMS shield transfer) Roman Legion figure very much.  Enjoy!

Finishing Up! (Part 2b of Painting WLG's Primus Pilus Centurion 28mm metal mini)

I'm now finishing up the Warlord Game's 28mm Centurion Primus Pilus metal alloy figure once the Army Painter Quick Shade has dried.

I use a mix of Gale Force 9 Super Fine Grit and Woodland Scenics Medium Gray RR Ballast.  I apply a thin coat of Woodland's Scenic Glue over the entire base...I like this glue because it goes on thick and thins very well with water and dries completely clear.

I shake lose any lose grit or ballast and allow the glue to set-up for about 10-15 minutes before I start to handle or start to paint.

I paint the round edge of the 2mm thick MDF base with P3's Battlefield Green.  I then drybrush a mixture of Vallejo's Yellow Ochre and Beige on the grit and ballast along with P3's Hammerfall Khaki, with an eye towards highlighting the rough and uneven terrain.

Once the highlighting is done, I apply some more non-thinned Scenic Glue to the base where I will want the grass and foliage to appear.  I apply the glue using a smallish synthetic brush and I just dab it on randomly.  Next I apply a pinch of Woodland Scenics Field Green Fine Turf and Light Green Coarse Turf to the glue in various spots mixing the two together, shaking off any excuse once the glue is semi-dry after 5 minutes or so.  After about an hour, I will gently blast the mini with a canned air computer dust cleaner to remove any ling, hair or debris that may have found its way on to the mini. Lastly I apply any paint touch-ups needed on the mini (with foreground figures I will highlight the sword with P3's Quick Silver) and then spray with Army Painter's Anti-Shine Matte Varnish Spray.

I apply 2-3 very light coats of the Anti-Shine over the entire figure and base.  I always make sure the garage temperature is not to cold and the humidity is not too high outside (which is tough during a Florida Summer).  Those two factors will ruin your work as the matte varnish will dry cloudy and spotty.  I allow the mini to dry for an hour or so before handling it and checking once again for any touch-ups that maybe needed.  Presto, the figure is done...time for a brew!