Here is my step-by-step process for painting and finishing a Warlord Games' Centurion "Primus Pilus" Early Imperial Roman Legion 28mm metal alloy figure (Part 1 of 2, actually 3!).
Step 2 -- I use P3's outstanding Black Primer on the figure and the base. I apply P3's White Primer to the front and back side of the Scutum (shield). As I stated in my previous post I am using only Wargames Foundry's metal shields for my new Cohort.
Step 3 -- I drybrush on my armor color using either Foundry Paint Systems' Chain Mail or P3's Pig Iron (both look great to me and I will use both to get some variety in the Cohort's color scheme). I paint the helmet and the Gladius (sword); as well as the shin guards. For the backside of the shield I use a craft-store cheap Raw Sienna paint and just slap it on with a cheap brush. This gets the laminated wood color done quickly for an area of the finished mini that will not really be seen.
Step 7 -- I paint more leather gear, like sword straps and his military decorations/award harness with P3's Bootstrap Leather. I paint the metal links of the Centurion's belt with P3's Molten Bronze, as well the sword scabbard raised areas, and the Gladius hilt. I like the tone of this paint as it look likes aged/worn bronze metal.
As I go I touch up any parts of the armor that I mess up with P3's Cold Steel. As I warm up during the painting session I have to do this less and less.Army Painter's Quick Shade Dipping varnish). I highlight the tassels with P3's Solid Gold.
Step 9 -- I now add the Scutum to the mini using CA glue and Insta-Set from Litko models. I paint the shield's boss with FPS's Chain Mail and the metal edge with P3's Brass Balls. Once dry I cut out the Little Big Men Studios shield transfer and apply it to the shield; I really love these. I prefer to use a Matte Medium or the water-based Decal Fix from Vallejo over the shield. This ensure a proper weld of the decal to the shield surface, which later also prevents the Dip from going underneath the decal and ruining it.
Step 10 -- I apply a quick-drying spray of Krylon Crystal Clear to the mini lightly in order to seal it and this protects the Centurion figure prior to my "dipping".
You don't have to worry the Gloss shine of the protective spray because later after the dip dries I will Matte Varnish the model with Army Painters Anti-Shine spray or Testors Dullcote varnish. The main warning I have about this anti-shine procedure is don't use this spray with high humidity outside or lots of moisture in the air as the mini will dry cloudy with white spots and that ruins the model.
Part 2 coming soon! I will go over my Quick Shade dipping and basing techniques.